Soccer in Chile: Stay out of the Streets

Chile has three soccer teams (well, there are more I'm sure, but they don't really matter to many people.) The rivalry between teams is enough to invoke a riot, close liquore stores early, and even break up a marriage (as my students have told me.) I have yet to choose a team because I don't know all that much about any of them, but I will have to at some point or I will not be let into certain bars, not be spoken to at certain parties, and basically have no place in Chilean society. The first team is La Universidad de Chile. This is a public university and a very good one at that. Another team is La Universidad Católica. This is the Catholic University team, although just like La Universidad de Chile, it is a professional team, not a college team. (I'm still trying to figure that out.) The last team is Colo-Colo. This is "el equipo de la gente" or the people's team. This is the team that most reflects Chile's culture and people.
Almost everyone in Chile is a fan of one of these three teams. And when I say that the rivalry is bitter, I mean it. Soccer is such a rowdy and dangerous sport here (to watch, that is. Playing is a walk in the park, but being a fan takes real courage.) that alcohol is not allowed to be sold in the stadium, or in any grocery store near the stadium because people are too passionate about their teams. This passion mixed with alcohol results in fights, assaults, and ramming your car into that of an opposing fan. I'm not joking, I watched it happen. Police line the streets in riot gear: full on suits, plastic shields, helmets and night-sticks. I thought we were in the middle of a war when I drove through the streets. There are certain sections of the stadium where it has been recommended that I don't sit when I go to a game because it's too dangerous. There are nets set up in front of the stands so the fans can't throw bottles at opposing players. The entire ambiance of the city changes on game-days, and it's almost like you can hear a buzz as you walk down the streets. Every radio is on, tv's are on all around the city, and some of my students have even tried to tell me that they won't be coming to class if there is a game on and I don't let them listen in class. (Umm, no!)

Even with all the craziness, the games are safe to attend as long as you're not being dumb and telling an opposing fan how bad their team is. (I'm adding this section to try to help ease my parents mind for when I tell them I have tickets for next week's game.) Soccer really is "el juego de la gente, " the people's game, here in Chile. Anyone can go play (unless you're a girl) no matter how much or how little money you have, and it's a way that people get together. It serves as something to distract people from issues like domestic violence, poverty and classism. It's an essential part of Chilean culture, and I really wouldn't survive here without acknowledging it :)